A Tale of Two Cities: Enjoying Liberia

Enjoying Liberia

Tripping Along the Coast

Robertsport, a place I never had the chance to see while living in Liberia as a Peace Corps Volunteer a long time ago. This small coastal town in far northwestern Liberia had always been described to me as a beautiful place and I remember that the Peace Corps people stationed there rarely traveled -- probably a good clue that they had something good going on. The beaches around Robertsport have recently gained some fame as a world class surf spot with the film, "Sliding Liberia."

So on a beautiful Saturday in February my friend Mosoka and his son Chris and I set out from Monrovia to explore. Here's a little log of our adventure.

First thing we had to do is escape Monrovia, cross "the Bridge" onto Bushrod Island, through Freeport and pass through Duala. Much of this area consists of shanty towns and markets that deal in various foodstuffs and tons and tons of plasticware and brick-a-brack. Immense activity and energy expended in the daily toil of trying to survive in frank poverty.

Here's a scene from somewhere near Duala. That is a mound of trash behind the lady with the tubs on her head. You can imagine the smells.

One never knows what one will see next. Check out this guy walking down the side of the street nonchalantly with his Intra Venous bag!!!

He's already somewhat remarkable because he appears to be a Chinese worker. There is a substantial population of Chinese workers in Liberia doing things like paving roads and installing traffic lights. Several Liberians have commented to me questioning why Chinese workers are doing jobs that could be done by Liberians. True that many of these projects are apparently funded by the Chinese government, but Liberians do need jobs.

He apparently also has a bag of meds with him.

Ahhh! Finally out of the shanty towns and onto the road to Robertsport!!!!!

This red laterite, iron oxide rich soil is typical of Liberia. Not being a farmer, my experience with the stuff happens mainly during road trips. In America sometimes I have been nostalgic for that "Red Dust on Green Leaves", yet in Liberia I have also often cursed the red dust as it blew up in clouds behind passing cars or trucks.

Women washing clothes in a stream off the side of the road.

Here's Mosoka hanging out in a savannah tree orchard. We learned from a local farmer that the leaves of these fruit trees also have medicinal properties and are used to treat coughs and chest congestion. Since I had been battling a cough since arriving in Liberia I asked him to show me how they were used. He picked a few young leaves and told me to chew them and swallow the juice. I did and within minutes my airways opened up and my cough got steadily better over the next couple of days. Maybe psychosomatic but hey I'm grateful and I'll try this one again.

Liberia would be a gold mine for natural products research.

This is the son of the the man that told us about the medicinal leaves.

We arrive in Robertsport and are greeted by sets and sets of waves.

Before playing in the surf though we decided to get some food. I just can't get enough fufu and soup and this meal was absolutely the best I've had in Liberia so far.

The chunks of fish were sweet and luscious and the cassava dumpling just melted in my mouth with a broth that had just the right amount of pepper and sesame paste. My God this was good!

Eat your heart out Anthony Bourdain!

Anthony Bourdain's blog about Liberia

"No Reservations," Bourdain's episode about Liberia

Here are some kids that were hanging out outside the little cookshop.